If you’re worried about getting out through the waves it’s important to just stay patient.

Before you go out, sit on the beach and watch how often the sets are arriving and how many waves are in each set. Take notice of how long the lull is between the sets and that way you’ll know how much time you have to get out the back after the set has passed. When you’re out there, don’t be afraid to pull a chicken gybe either. If there’s a mountain of white water heading straight for you it’s a lot smarter to just turn around and save yourself the energy of swimming. I see Scotty doing it all the time.

Jaeger Stone at PWA Gran Canaria.
Jaeger Stone preparing to head out in Pozo. Image credit PWA/JC.
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